Watchmaking news | 23 September 2026 | EP Watches editorial

What if the most interesting feature of a watch were not hidden behind its dial? In 2026, visible mechanics are part of a wider conversation about craftsmanship, design and how we connect with mechanical timepieces. Skeleton watches reveal much of their movement; open-heart watches offer a carefully framed glimpse of its beating balance. Both invite the wearer to look beyond the hands.

Why are skeleton watches making headlines in 2026?

A September 2026 Financial Times feature examines how openworked watches have become a visible part of contemporary watchmaking. The interest spans different approaches: some brands emphasise painstaking decoration, others build an architectural view into the design of the movement itself. It is not a single new invention, nor does it mean every watch enthusiast wants a fully open dial. It is a renewed spotlight on a longstanding technique.

For collectors and newcomers alike, the attraction is easy to understand. A conventional dial keeps the mechanism discreet; an openworked design lets light pass through components and makes the movement part of the visual experience.

A new example: Ulysse Nardin celebrates 25 years of the Freak

Among the developments reported on 23 September, Ulysse Nardin's Freak collection offers a striking interpretation of visible mechanical watchmaking. The Swiss manufacture marks 25 years since the original Freak was introduced in 2001, alongside its 180th anniversary in 2026. The collection is known for using the movement itself to indicate time rather than following the typical hands-and-dial arrangement.

The new Freak ONE Guilloché features a textured hour disc decorated with a diamond-pattern guilloché motif. The Freak ONE Blue Enamel explores a different decorative expression. According to the manufacturer, each version is limited to 99 pieces. These are high-end complications, rather than direct equivalents of everyday open-heart watches, but they illustrate the same broader fascination with a movement that can be seen and appreciated.

Skeleton versus open heart: what is the difference?

Although the terms are sometimes used interchangeably, they describe different visual approaches:

• Skeleton watch: substantial parts of the dial and/or movement plates are opened up, making a large section of the mechanics visible.
• Open-heart watch: a smaller aperture in the dial exposes the balance assembly while most of the dial remains intact.
• Exhibition caseback: a transparent back lets you view the movement from behind; a watch can have this feature without having an open dial.

Neither approach automatically tells you how accurate, durable or well-finished a watch is. Those qualities depend on the movement, construction, regulation, materials and maintenance. When choosing a mechanical watch, look at its specifications as well as its appearance.

How does this connect with independent watchmaking?

Small independent brands can bring the visual appeal of mechanical watchmaking into pieces designed for everyday life. At EP – Eduardo Pimenta Watches, the L’Origine Open Heart Automatic uses a TMI NH38 automatic movement to reveal the balance through an opening in the dial. Our Héritage Open Heart offers another interpretation of the same idea. These are open-heart models, not fully skeletonised watches; they should not be confused with the Freak's more elaborate architecture.

Our perspective is straightforward: a mechanical watch is more meaningful when you understand a little of what happens beneath its dial. Seeing the balance move is one way to begin that conversation. It is also why we value careful hand assembly, transparent specifications and long-term care.

What to look for when choosing your first visible-mechanics watch

Start with readability: can you tell the time at a glance? Check case size and thickness, the type of crystal, water-resistance rating and the movement's documented functions. If you're drawn to an open heart, consider whether you prefer a discreet aperture or a more dramatic skeleton display. Finally, review the warranty and maintenance recommendations rather than buying on looks alone.

Curious to see this philosophy in a watch assembled by an independent atelier in Switzerland? Discover L’Origine by EP Watches, or explore the Héritage Open Heart.

Sources and further reading: Financial Times — What's the skinny on skeleton watches?; Ulysse Nardin — Freak collection; Freak ONE Guilloché; Freak ONE Blue Enamel.

Editorial photographs: L’Origine product image © EP – Eduardo Pimenta Watches; skeleton watch photograph credited in its caption above. Product photographs are illustrative and do not imply any partnership with other watchmakers mentioned.